How To Keep Loawnmower Blade From Falling Off
When you took the blade off did the blade adapter fall off? If so, the key could have also fallen off and you didn't put it back. If the key is built into (part of) the blade adapter, is it intact or is it sheared? Some blade adapters have a couple of nubs on them that correspond to holes in the blade, are the nubs sheared off? Get shopping advice from experts, friends and the community! I have a 1 year old 21' Craftsman Pro lawnmower model # 247.887761. The only time I used it this spring, the blade adapter broke. (About 1/4 of the sleeve part of the adapter along with the 'key' section was missing upon inspection.) To the best of my knowledge, I didn't hit anything.
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We have the right to reproduce statements made in the forums.The Chronicle of the Horse may copy, quote, link to or otherwise reproduce posts, or portions of posts, in print or online for advertising or editorial purposes, if attributed to their original authors, and by posting in this forum, you hereby grant to The Chronicle of the Horse a perpetual, non-exclusive license under copyright and other rights, to do so.8. We reserve the right to enforce and amend the rules. And for more information.Thanks for being a part of the COTH forums!(Revised 5/9/18). I have already tried prayers, cursing, vise grips, blocking the blade with things while trying to turn the screw, and preliminary WD40. It has now been left saturated with long-term WD40 to think over the error of its ways.No matter what I've tried, either the blade turns with the screw, or with the blade blocked completely, I hurt my hands, and the vise grips fall off.
I've even tried going the other direction in case I had it wrong, remembering a 'duh' moment I had once involving a hose that wouldn't screw onto a faucet.No other set of hands is available for assistance.$^.$%^($^&. Single-bladed mower. It's a plain push mower. Cub Cadet, if that matters.The blade has a hexagonal nut in the middle of it and a wing-shaped thing a few inches long that appears to be between that nut and the blade. The edges of the nut are quite sharp and not damaged.
The blade (which is bent badly by encounter with an attack rock, hence the efforts to remove and apply new blade) seems to be a bit loose. I can move the blade up and down slightly, but that nut and the wing-thingy are absolutely stuck together.The blade was damaged badly enough by the attack rock that it was hitting the side of the deck and making the mower convulse, and I shut the mower off within just a few seconds and haven't attempted to run it since. Maybe the damage bent/jammed something other than the blade?I have vise grips, one wrench of the wrong size, and pliers.
Assuming this is a push-type mower (if a rider, modify 'turn over' accordingly):1. Get a 3' or so section of 4x4 (2x4 or 2x2 also works, but I'm a 'start big' kinda guy).2. Wedge the block of wood in the undercarriage so that the blade cannot turn. If you don't care about spilling gasoline, makes it easier if you turn the damned thing upside down but that's not required. I usally run the block out the grass exit for more stability.3. Get a SOCKET which is the proper fit for your blade bolt.
DO NOT use pliers, adjustable wrenches, etc - they just mess up the bolt head. If you've ALREADY MESSED IT UP, get a file and clean the bolt head up so the socket will fit snugly. With 99% of the blade bolts, you don't have a snowball's chance in Hades to break them loose with adjustable stuff.4. Get a honking big breaker bar. I use a 1' square drive for this duty (24' long), and adapt it down to the socket drive size.
Bigger is better here. If you only have a 3/8' drive bar, put a 2' extension pipe on it.
You've got to have enough leverage that you DO NOT strain. Cover letter for bim engineer salary. 18' is generally minimum, 24' is much better.5. Slowly put tension on the bar, carefully watching the wood wedge. When everything is nice and tight and secure (if not, start again), put increasing force on the bar. The nut will give suddenly, so be prepared.
There is some stuff you can buy that will work better than WD-40 to loosen the stuck bolt. Of course, I can't remember the name of it. Home Depot type places carry it. You spray it on the bolt and then tap it and the vibrations help the stuff work it's way in and loosen it.I never believe it will work but it has helped me out a few times. I think you can probably describe it to a hardware store and they will know what you're talking aboutBetcha it's PB Blaster.
I should buy stock in that product, I buy it by the case. Awesome stuff.eats through and loosens almost anything. Very good for rusted on/rusted shut stuff and also helped a lot with the gunked on crud on my mower blade attachment.Now this might sound silly, but make sure you aren't trying to loosen it to the right. Yeah, everyone knows 'righty/tighty - lefty/loosey'.except for my husband.
He got so pissed while trying to surprise me by removing the mower blades that he put a tad too much effort trying to loosen it in the wrong direction and cracked the spindle shaft. Had to have the whole thing replaced, he's no longer allowed near the mower. (or tractor, or truck, or leafblower, or generator.he's running out of things he's allowed near, LOL)And do you have a wire brush? If not in your toolbox or tool area.do you have a grill? Check your grill tools, the combo scraper/brush grill tool works just great.
Use the wire brush side and really scrub around the nut, then hit it with the PB Blaster and let it sit. When you go buy PB Blaster, pick up a wrench set so you have the right size. Secretariat is right that it's really tough to remove a really stuck nut with an adjustable anything unless you have iron grip hand strength. An impact wrench would be great, I've been wanting one of those. But they aren't exactly an everyday tool. Assuming this is a push-type mower (if a rider, modify 'turn over' accordingly):1. Get a 3' or so section of 4x4 (2x4 or 2x2 also works, but I'm a 'start big' kinda guy).2.
Wedge the block of wood in the undercarriage so that the blade cannot turn. If you don't care about spilling gasoline, makes it easier if you turn the damned thing upside down but that's not required.
I usally run the block out the grass exit for more stability.3. Get a SOCKET which is the proper fit for your blade bolt. DO NOT use pliers, adjustable wrenches, etc - they just mess up the bolt head. If you've ALREADY MESSED IT UP, get a file and clean the bolt head up so the socket will fit snugly. With 99% of the blade bolts, you don't have a snowball's chance in Hades to break them loose with adjustable stuff.4.
Lawn Mower Blade Replacement
Get a honking big breaker bar. I use a 1' square drive for this duty (24' long), and adapt it down to the socket drive size. Bigger is better here. If you only have a 3/8' drive bar, put a 2' extension pipe on it. You've got to have enough leverage that you DO NOT strain.
18' is generally minimum, 24' is much better.5. Slowly put tension on the bar, carefully watching the wood wedge. When everything is nice and tight and secure (if not, start again), put increasing force on the bar. The nut will give suddenly, so be prepared.This is the exact same method I use, right up to the wooden block. Heed: You do need to either buy yourself some tools or else load the thing up and take it to a repair shop. As mentioned above, pliers and adjustables won't do this type of job.Good luck!
Never use Vise-Grips, or an adjustable wrench, or even a 12 point box wrench or socket on a mower blade. They are self-tightening anyway and when you hit something with one like this one did it just makes it that much tighter. I always use an air wrench with 6 point socket but you can get one off that's been overtightened with a 6 point socket and breaker bar-unless of course the head of the bolt has been screwed up Vise-Grips, adjustable wrench. Or 12 point.Whenever it does come out by whatever method, be sure to put a new bolt back in it so it will come out next time.Vise-Grip used to make a special one for getting out bolts that the heads have been boggered up.
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Regular Vise-Grips won't hold good enough. That's what I'd use in this case with a block of wood and 3 pound hammer to break it loose. I'd love to have the horses mow the lawn - if they could only understand the commandments:Thou shalt not munch the shrubbery.Thou shalt not eat the flowers.Thou shalt not piaffe upon the septic tank.Thou shalt not bang into or kick the vehicles, or the house, or the well house, or anything which is thine owner's.Thou shalt not covet the identical blade of grass which your neighbor horse is currently chewing - there is enough that everyone doesn't have to be on the same piece.Unfortunately, my horses seem reluctant to conversion to the above.
So we are limited to hand grazing when I have time. I skipped some of the posts, so maybe this was mentioned.First, you need to be certain that you are trying to turn the bolt in the correct direction.Most blades are installed so that the blade tightens when the engine is running.That is to keep the nut from loosening when running under cutting load.So if the threads do not protrude past the nut so you can actually look at the threads and see whether it is right hand or left hand threads, turn the nut towards the sharp side of the blade to loosen.Use a socket. Not that expensive and available at all major hardware stores, but I like Sears tools the best.Don't get the short handled ratchet wrench. Those are handy as can be for the general mechanic, and if you plan to do a lot of wrench turning they are invaluable.But to break this one loose, you need a socket the correct size.
If it was made in the US, it will be something like 3/4. And you need a long handle to give you lots of leverage.Now to turn the socket, get a flex handle. Go here:and you will see several.Put a good shot of WD40 on it and let it sit for a few minutes and then have at it.Grass is highly corrosive and it is likely the nut has never been removed so it is frozen.Now all of that said, this is what you really should do. Put it in your truck or the back of your car and take it to any garage or mechanic that does the work on your car. He will have an impact wrench, which you will never buy because a good cordless, like a Milwaukee, will run $350 or so. Air impacts are much cheaper, but you need an air compressor to operate them so that is out.The impact wrench shocks the nut and will therefore loosen it.It will take him about 3 minutes at the most.Also, he can show you exactly what kind of a wrench and the proper size to buy for the next time.And last but definitely not least, he can look at it and tell in an instant whether it is right or left threads.CSSJRProtect your privacy.
Replace Google with IXQUICK at.If we do not wish to lose our freedom, we must learn to tolerate ourneighbor's right to freedom even though he might express that freedomin a manner we consider to be eccentric. It is more likely to be a bolt than a nut, but all else applies.Be careful.
If the wrench slips or the bolt/nut suddenly breaks loose, a lawnmower blade is sharp enough to do serious damage to your fingers. Like deep cuts.Tapping with some vigor on the bolt can help, but if you don't know what you are doing, you could damage the corners of the bolt/nut so that it will no longer be a good fit for the wrench.By the way, if you do 'round' it, there are tools available for that, but there you get into an area where you need someone with experience.CSSJRProtect your privacy.
Replace Google with IXQUICK at.If we do not wish to lose our freedom, we must learn to tolerate ourneighbor's right to freedom even though he might express that freedomin a manner we consider to be eccentric.
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